Sunday, July 26, 2009

A Note of Caution to Aspiring Models on How to Avoid Scams

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Those who are interested in modeling work need to be cautious of people and companies trying to exploit naive and enthusiastic young people willing to spend lots of money in hopes of making their dreams of becoming a model come true. I am going to talk about three predators groups: 1, Guys with a camera and website trying to meet young women, 2, Online sexual predators and 3, Scam model management companies.

While the digital age has allowed photography to be less expensive and the internet has made networking a task easily accomplished for amateur models and photographers alike, it has unfortunately brought some risks.

1. Ladies and parents should be cautious of GWC (guys with cameras) who claim to be photographers and really just want to meet pretty young women and take pictures of them in small amounts of clothing for their own personal pleasure.

There are several ways to distinguish a real photographer from a GWC: A professional or semi-professional photographer will have professional equipment: an expensive camera that costs at least over $1000 and can't be purchased at a mass retail outlet like Wal-mart. It will be an SLR (single lens reflex) and he will possess additional equipment such as an external flash and interchangeable lenses. Furthermore he will probably own some studio equipment such as lights, reflectors and backdrops.

Like any hobby or profession, one must start from the bottom up and a truly aspiring photographer just getting started (but who is not a GWC) may simply not have the income to invest in professional equipment yet, much less a studio. An amateur photographer can learn and practice composition with consumer level equipment, but I would suggest to that photographer that he first work as an assistant or intern to a professional photographer with professional equipment in a studio setting before scouting for aspiring models to shoot on his own.

Also, an amateur photographer working with models for the first time should be able to produce previous works (photos of nature, commercial prints, artistic photos) to demonstrate that his primary interest is photography and not luring pretty girls to his home to take pictures of them in lingerie. If the only pictures in his portfolio are swimsuit and lingerie, he is a GWC.

There are many internet based networking sites for models and photographers such as www.imodel.com,
www.onemodelplace.com, www.modelmayhem.com and www.modellocate.com
. A professional photographer will likely have his or her own website with samples of their published work and/or an upgraded (not free) account on one of the aforementioned networking sites. Still, anyone can buy a camera and create a website.

Professional photographers will usually have a studio in an office building, but there are plenty of pros who simply are not that invested in a local market. Some pros do work out of their home and have a room set up as a studio. Hotels do in fact make good locations to shoot because the bathroom with closed doors and large mirrors are great for changing and doing hair and make-up. But in general, be very cautious of any photographer who invites you to do a shoot in their home or hotel. If you are shooting with several people such as stylists and/or multiple models and photographers, home studios and hotels can be made into a safe environments. But if its just one guy with a camera inviting you to his house, apartment or hotel room, take a guest and make sure a close friend or relative knows where you are and how long you will be there.

Of course the best way to distinguish a GWC from an aspiring amateur photographer is to ask for references. It is completely appropriate to ask for professional references such as current and/or former employers.

2. A greater risk is sexual predators using the internet and the cover of "being a photographer" or "in the modeling industry" to meet minors (or those of legal age for that matter) to engage in sexual activity. Adolescents are by nature sexually curious and often needy for attention. That makes them a prime candidate to be victims of sexual abuse by a predator who hides his true intentions. It is illegal to use the internet to seek sexual activity with a minor whether a meeting takes place or not. NBC's TV news show Dateline has aired several features on an organization called Perverted Justice, a group that works with law enforcement dedicated to finding, exposing and convicting internet predators. Visit their website here: www.perverted-justice.com.

Likewise, teenagers should be discreet about their personal information online and not post "sexy" images of themselves on public profile sites. Sadly, today's teen idols such as the party girls who keep getting arrested for DUI related charges and dress and dance like strippers on TV and in magazines have become role models for young women and girls. While soliciting a minor for sexual activity is illegal under any circumstances, it is still unwise to advertise one's self. To do so is like posting photos of your car in a profile that reveals the location of your keys. Its still illegal to steal a car, but you wouldn't share access to it on the internet. Note to teen girls: Don't post sexy photos of yourself in skanky clothes posing in slutty positions and then whine when a creepy old man tries to flirt with you over the internet.

3. Another risk is scam companies who claim to be agencies and charge enormous amounts of money to inexperienced models claiming to get them paid jobs. While there are legitimate schools that offer training and photographers who sell their services, you should never pay hundreds of dollars to a company making those claims. Even the legitimate schools and some photographers often overcharge for their services with the claim that you will be able to earn it back working as a model. A good portfolio from a professional portrait studio can be purchased for $200 - $450.

Three of the largest modeling "schools" are John Casablancas, John Robert Powers and Barbizon. While they may successfully teach charm and stage presence, give tips on exercise and diet, demonstrate hair styling and makeup application as well as posing and walking technique; they cannot guarantee that such training will lead to paid jobs. The states of Texas and Florida have passed laws preventing agencies from making the purchase of training services a requirement to being represented. Unfortunately, KY, IN and OH are too small of markets and so many scam companies slip under the law enforcement and public safety radar.

Here are some characteristics of a scam modeling agency:

A. They claim that in order to get paying jobs, you must first pay them hundreds to thousands of dollars for "classes" or "photography." While its true that models must have a portfolio and some training helps, the fact is that a model can put together a mild portfolio via TFP shoots (explained below) and a good portfolio from an independent photographer (as mentioned above).

Legit agencies do NOT have their own photographer who do all their shoots. While agents will of course know photographers (as well as make-up artists and hair stylists) and can make referrals to trusted professionals, models pay the photographer for the photos and then the model gives them to the agency rather than the agency supplying the photographer and taking the money themselves. Sometimes scam companies will tell you that you don't have to use their photographer, but they strongly encourage you to. Call their bluff. Create your own portfolio and submit it and see if you get paying jobs. Most people don't.

B. Scam companies will often claim to have the ability to get you signed with a big NY or LA agency via their exclusive contacts. Some larger agencies do accept referrals from small companies, but then of course if you sign an exclusive contract, they get 20% just for a referral. Ask yourself: "Why would a company that represents models pass on their talent to a competitor?" ANYONE can send their photos to and audition with big NY and LA agencies - no intermediary is required.

C. Sometimes, to avoid being labeled a scam, these companies do in fact provide work for models. But the difference between a talent agent and a scam company is that while an agent contacts the talent regarding an audition or job, a scam company simply posts ads on their website and the model has to check it themselves. Any individual can scan the classifieds and craigslist.org for jobs. And anyone with a website can repost those ads. So then when the model complains about not getting work, the scam company tells them that they should be checking their website for jobs. That's what's known as "blame the victim." What usually happens is that a small handful of models get the few paid jobs and everyone else supports them by paying $1000 for photos.

Another trick to avoid being labeled a scam is to produce fashion shows, but not pay the runway models. Sometimes they promote the job to the models as "great for exposure" and "resume/portfolio building" and there is truth to the benefits of getting your face and name out there; even if you are not getting paid, especially if you are a beginner. But what I have seen is the scam company getting paid by the client yet telling the models they are working for exposure. Another disclaimer is to partner the fashion show with a non-profit organization and explain to the models that all the proceeds are going to the charity. Well, the sound, light and video production company is getting paid, the DJ is getting paid, the promoter gets a cut and the other staff in the venue gets paid for working so why not the runway models? The scam company "produces" the fashion show as a vehicle to recruit new victims to pay hundreds to thousands of dollars to be represented, so that's how they profit from the show.

Here is what you have to ask yourself about working for free in order to build up your portfolio: What do you walk away with? Do you have photos of yourself on the runway to prove to potential clients that you did the show? Are your photos being used in a magazine ad, newspaper ad, billboard ad, poster or other physical, tangible product (called a tear sheet) that document your work? Having your photo in a catalog, storefront poster, flier or even a business' website can be adequate compensation for a beginner model. But to do show after show and shoot after shoot for no money means that you are probably being taken advantage of.

D. Another characteristic of a scam company is that when you do in fact get a paying job, not only is the rate very low, but the company doesn't pay you after the gig. If you have to call them repeatedly and ask for your check, then obviously they are exploiting you and trying to steal your money. Sometimes it does in fact take more than 30 days for the agency to collect from a client, but if months go by, then you have been ripped off.

When I worked for legit agencies in New Orleans and LA, even the not so experienced models earned $100 - $300 for a shoot that lasted one or two hours. A full day can pay from $500 - over $1000. Local advertising agencies will of course pay less than nationwide campaigns. But if the model gets $10 - $20 per hour, its likely that the scam agency is making even more money per hour, on top of their 20% cut.

The fact is that there is simply not enough work out there (especially in a market like Louisville) for every person who wants to be a model. Most of the paid jobs outside of NY, LA, Miami, Vegas and other large cities are promotional modeling jobs. Only a tiny fraction of actors and models earn a living as a professional. Even NY and LA are full of aspiring stars waiting tables full time and waiting for that big break the rest of the time. At the Ford Modeling Agency, only one in a thousand girls who apply are signed to the agency and only a fraction of those earn a living wage as a model. If you really want to do fashion modeling or other work outside of promo jobs, you will need to relocate to a larger market.

Know the difference between a real agency (a company which makes 100% of it's revenue from commissions off paid jobs) and a model management company (which charges models to be represented). In some states where agencies are licensed, they will use the words "model management" instead of "agency." In general, "model management" is a sign of a scam.

Children, teens and students should look at modeling as an extracurricular activity like being on a sports team at school. Those who are proactive, polite and punctual can be successful, especially if they happen to get "discovered" by the right person at the right time. Parents and potential models should be prepared to invest the same level of time and money into acting/modeling classes and photography as they would in piano lessons or athletic equipment (i.e. not lump sums of hundreds of dollars) but not expect that investment to guarantee paid jobs. And even then, paying several hundred to several thousand dollars to an "agency" that charges for classes and photography probably won't have the same payoff that the same kid can get from being a student athlete or musician.

With the advent of profile hosting and networking websites, many clients are bypassing agencies and instead advertising for and recruiting models directly. Therefore a model can be successful in a small, local market like Louisville acting independently. So if a model is going to pay hundreds of dollars to someone else to find them work, then what kind of work ethic are they going to have on the job? I would prefer to work with a model who is proactive and determined. In other words, since a good model can find their own jobs and submit their portfolios to legit agencies on their own, a scam company is going to prey on the ones who are not proactive enough to know better. A scam can exist only if there are willing victims.

Visit the site www.modelingscams.org for more information on scams and this site by the Federal Trade Commission: www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/services/model.htm.

TFP (Time for Prints):

A good solution to avoiding predator groups seeking to exploit aspiring models is a transaction known in the industry as TFP (time for prints). It's a trade between photographers and models where the model gives their time free of charge and the photographer in turn gives them copies of the prints. Today this trade is sometimes referred to as TFCD - a compact disk of digital pictures is given instead of actual prints.

TFP is a great way for amateur photographers and aspiring models to meet and help one another expand their portfolios. Photographers often will help models learn posing techniques and how to be comfortable in front of the camera. Even professional photographers and experienced models will do TFP in order to work with other reputable professionals.

Even though TFP is not a cash transaction, the photographer should have a release form for the model to sign. This allows mutual property of the pictures for both the photographer and model to use as they wish (depending on the terms in the contract). You must realize that most release forms do grant the photographer the right to profit from the photo, but not necessarily the model. Here is a link from the website www.istockphoto.com about model releases with links to samples.

Because there are countless amateur and professional photographers offering TFP who are easily available through the networking sites mentioned earlier, there is no need for a "management" company to insist that you sign an exclusive contract with them and use only their photographer. You can create and host your own portfolio with legitimate photographers on networking websites at no cost. If you want to pay for photography and classes, just be sure that you are not being overcharged with the promise of booked jobs from the same company.

Whether paying for photography and classes or working one on one with a photographer, it is very wise for models under 18 to have a parent or guardian present and sign a release form. I don't work with minors who do not plan to have a guardian present. Likewise, I encourage young ladies to bring a friend or family member to shoots rather than show up alone - at least for the first meeting.

Some models may be more comfortable without their friends or family present and watching the shoot, some may prefer to have them. As a photographer, I prefer to see people close to the model such a mother and/or boyfriend take an interest in and be supportive of their hobby and career pursuit.

It is imperative for photographers, models and their guests to foster a professional atmosphere of trust. Being cautious of these predator groups will greatly contribute to a happy and successful experience getting started in the modeling industry.

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1 comment:

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