Models and Boudoir Clients: How to Prepare for a Photo Shoot

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Sessions

A “session” refers to an outfit and lighting/setting change, i.e., a completely different look, and yields between 50 and 200 images each. I don't charge by the hour because I don't want you to pay for the time I spend changing the lights or the time you spend changing clothes. You can make minor outfit changes and I can make minor lighting adjustments within one session at no extra charge.



Customers seeking a model portfolio do at least three sessions, typically formal wear, casual wear and swimwear/lingerie. For comp cards, most models do five looks. Each session will include headshots, top half of the body, and full head to toe body shots, as well as seated or lying down. That way you have every angle in each outfit. Of course you can shoot in as many different sessions as you want to pay for, and for each outfit I will use backgrounds and lighting to compliment your clothes.



If we were shooting an advertisement for a clothing designer or boutique we would be using their clothes and a stylist would choose what you wear. But this shoot is for you because you are the paying customer and so you get to decide what to wear and how to look. If you are not sure what looks to create, pack a suitcase full of everything and we will decide together what will combine with the setting to create fabulous images.

Guests

I welcome clients to bring a friend or family member to shoots rather than show up alone -- at least for the first meeting. Some models may be more comfortable without their friends or family present and watching the shoot, some may prefer to have them. Having a guest give feedback on what looks good can be helpful, just please advise your friends not to chit chat while I am shooting.

Most of the time mom's are a great help at a photo shoot selecting outfits and being encouraging and boyfriends can make a good grip (assist me in carrying equipment). But on very few occasions I have had controlling mothers and jealous boyfriends who make the experience for the model unpleasant. So I am fine with you bringing a guest, but I don't insist on it if you would prefer to not have the company. Mostly we don’t want to have other people in the room gawking and talking while we work. Anyone under 18 must have a parent present at all times.

Again, this is a paid shoot and you are the customer. But understand that if I were paying you or any other client hired you to model for them, you would not bring friends or family in the same way that you don’t bring your boyfriend or mom with you to work. In general, photo shoots are not social activities.

Hair and Makeup

The average cost for a MUA (make-up artist) and hair stylist is $20 - $35 per session (depending on stylist). Let me know if you want one and I will arrange to have one at the shoot. Having a professional make-up artist and hair stylist will greatly aid in the overall appearance of the images as well as help you feel like a professional model. But I understand that it can be costly and many women like to do their own hair and make-up or have a friend do it. If you choose to do your own, here are a few tips:
• Go heavy on the eye liner and mascara. Use either a neutral eye shadow or bring a color that matches a particular outfit that you want to shoot in.
• Extra blush and foundation is good, as long as the color is not drastically different from your natural skin tone (we want the color of your face to match the rest of your body).
• Go heavy on the lipstick – use a bright red or pink, but not a dark color unless you decide to use the same dark color eye shadow or clothes.
• Body lotion and baby oil to create a shine is fine, but you must be very careful not to spill it on backdrops, clothes and so on.

Wardrobe

I suggest that you bring a variety of outfits, from casual and club wear to formal dresses to swimwear and lingerie – whatever you are comfortable wearing and want to shoot in. I will help you select what pieces to put together but will never insist that you wear (or not wear) something that you don't want to shoot in. Here are some basic guidelines:

Avoid anything with text on it. Abercrombie and Hollister are not paying us so I am not going to promote them for free. But if you really want to, I will shoot you in those outfits. Still, clothing with text is difficult to shoot and puts the emphasis on the product, not the person. Avoid patterns such as plaid and stripes (especially in swimwear). I prefer solid colors, but again, if you have an item of clothing with patterns that you want to shoot in, I’m not going to refuse to shoot. Denim is good, lace is fine and other materials with texture such as fur look good in photos.

Bring both a black and white bra (plus any other color if you want to shoot in lingerie) and a strapless if you have one to go with whatever tops you wear. We can enhance cleavage with gaffer’s tape. Wear a thong if you plan to shoot in leggings or other tight fitting pants that would reveal panty lines. Brand names on waist bands are acceptable as long as the logos are not too big.

Again, Victoria's Secret is not paying us to promote their clothes, but I understand if you want to wear a popular brand and that is fine. The Playboy Bunny or example is a popular and recognizable logo, but if you shoot a trademarked image, you are limited to what you can do with the photos for non-personal use. When I shoot a magazine ad, the logos are sometimes the subject of the photo and the model is merely the mannequin for the outfit. But for a model portfolio or personal photos, YOU are the subject of the photos and the clothes are to enhance your image. Text and logos distract from that purpose.

Tattoos should either be completely revealed or completely covered. If you have tattoos, avoid clothes with straps that cover the art work or wear something that completely hides it.

Bring a variety of shoes and other foot wear such as boots or sandals. Heels are great because they help with posture. Shoes with ankle straps always look good. Feel free to bring jewelry and other accessories, but nothing that is very expensive. Hats, headbands, scarves, purses, and so on are fine.

What NOT to bring

NO gum and NO smoking in the studio at all, and NO food or drinks in the shooting area. These items should be kept away from your clothes and my equipment.

Please keep cell phones turned off and put away. It's very distracting to be shooting when some annoying ring tone goes off. Since I don’t charge by the hour, I don’t want to spend my time hanging out while you chat on the phone. If you feel that you need to be reachable or want to take a break to return calls, that’s fine, I just don’t want it ringing while we are working. Think of it as visiting the salon or dentist. You wouldn’t whip out your phone and chit-chat while getting your hair styled or teeth cleaned.

Also, no other cameras shooting the set. My studio equipment and lights are part of my product and services. Therefore no one else will be allowed to use their personal cameras with my set up. This is a standard practice in studios.

Food and Drink

Some models don't like to eat before a shoot because they are afraid they will appear bloated. I disagree. You will only feel bloated if you eat a heavy meal like fast food and drink carbonated beverages. More importantly, you will be in a good mood if you are not hungry. So eat first, even if it's just a light snack.

Adjacent to my studio is a food mart and there is a small office size refrigerator in the studio. Feel free to bring bottled water or pick something up next door. I do NOT serve drinks in an open or opened container to customers and I do NOT serve alcoholic beverages.

Hygiene

Some of this goes without saying, but please be completely bathed and clean before a shoot. Legs, armpits and pubic area should be clean shaven or waxed with no “5 o’clock shadow” or stubble. The use of lotion to avoid dry, chapped skin is encouraged. An expensive facial and body wax is not required, but doesn’t hurt. Spray on tan should be used cautiously as we don’t want some surfaces darker than others or getting clothes stained.

Feel free to contact me with any questions.

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Levels of Clothing Coverage and Skin Exposure for Female Models and Boudoir Clients

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As a photographer, my job is to capture and create images with a client. While I direct poses and make wardrobe suggestions and selections, I do not insist that models reveal private areas of the body or pose in a suggestive manner that is beyond her comfort level. This document was written to help models and boudoir clients decide how much or how little they want to wear at a photo shoot. By reading and studying this document before a shoot, the client can go into the studio with her comfort levels and boundaries clearly in mind.

Most boudoir photos remain private. Some shoots involve lingerie and others full nudity. Every client has their own comfort level and tends to know what her partner prefers. Often the electronic files and/or prints from a boudoir session are used as a Valentine’s gift. This document was written with models in mind, but applies to boudoir clients as well.

As modeling is similar to acting, many jobs may require a model to dress (act) in a manner that they normally would not. Actors are merely playing a role other than their normal self. And sometimes, acting and modeling allows one to reveal a part of their personality that would normally hold back. As a Ringling Brothers and Barnum Bailey clown once told me: “I’m not so much acting as I am playing the part of myself that I could not be without the make-up and costume.”



Of course, many actors won’t do nude scenes and neither do many models. For some, a photo shoot is an opportunity to be different and models want to wear (or not wear) clothes that they normally would not, and reveal more flesh than they would in public. Like wearing a costume on Halloween, a photo shoot can be a chance to play “dress up.” Sometimes that also includes dressing sexy by using less clothes. When I do a photo shoot and the paying model is the client, they decide how dressed they want to be. When the model and I are working for another client such as a magazine ad, the client decides what the model wears. All models need to know where they draw the line on revealing skin.

For example: in general, the term “glamour” describes models in sexy outfits and poses as depicted in magazines like Maxim, but can also include nude poses such as seen in Playboy. The purpose of this article is to break down the term “glamour” into more specific details. Listed below are five levels of "showing skin" with examples of familiar publications and using the MPAA rating system as a guide.

Level 0: Rated G. What you would wear to church

This first category is pretty self explanatory. These are clothes that you would wear to school, church, family reunions and so on. There is nothing sexy or revealing about them. Of course, beauty and class can still be conveyed.

Level 1: Rated PG. Catalogs or Newspaper and Magazine Ads

Casual Wear:
These are outfits that one would wear when going out in public and want to look good for the guys: snug jeans, short skirts, low cut tops and so on. Maybe a little cleavage is showing, but otherwise they are not at all revealing. These outfits could be used in pictures that your mom would think is cute but might make your grandmother blush just a little because "we didn't show off our legs when I was your age." This level can be classy and sexy or just average, depending on the pose. Think of these images as the posters at a young adult clothing store at the mall or what many teens and young women wear themselves to the mall in the summer time.



Swimwear:
This level of swimwear is the same as one would wear to a public pool or to the beach. All your private areas are covered up and poses are not really sexually suggestive. Think of Swimwear poses as clean and innocent as family photos on the beach. They may not be framed and hung on the living room wall, but they would be in the family photo album. Again think of these images as resembling a department store newspaper ad for "Misses Swimwear." In other words, these photos would be used to sell swimwear to female customers, not to show off a hot girl to male viewers.



Lingerie:
Some lingerie covers more skin than a bikini one would wear to the beach, but since it is technically underwear, some people prefer to think of posing in a bra and panties as more revealing. It's sexy, but not sexually suggestive. Still rated PG and no more sexy than a magazine ad or clothing catalog such as Victoria's Secret. Panties, boy shorts, cotton, lace and so on fall into this category, but thongs or sheer see-through material does not. In this category "pink areas" (a term used to describe nipples and the pubic region - sorry that term is racist, but it’s common in the industry) are completely covered. Of course guys like to look at the Victoria's Secret catalog, but still these are images designed to sell the clothes to other female buyers, not to entice men.



Level 2: Rated PG-13. Men's Magazines Poses

Sexy Casual or Club wear:
There is not really a good clothing advertisement to compare this one to… This is what you would wear to a bar when you want to impress that one guy and get all the others ones to notice you. A good photographer or director can pose models and shift the clothes to be sexy and revealing some skin but still remain dressed. The skirt might be hiked up and the top pulled down low revealing bra and panties, but the model is not removing clothes. It’s certainly possible to remain classy at this level without being overly revealing.



Sexy Swimwear:
Thirty years ago the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue kept the models all covered. But in the last ten years they have become quite revealing including topless shots and bikini bottoms barely tied on. These are NOT images that would be used in an ad to sell swimwear and in fact some bookstores place the SI Swimsuit issue in the Men's section, not the Sports section. Imagine car and truck magazines that have a bikini clad model standing in front of the vehicle where the focus is on the model, not the clothes. This is the category for the Hooter’s Calendar. These are photos that are designed for readers of men’s magazines, not to sell clothes in a women’s catalogue.



Sexy Lingerie:
This category makes the leap from Victoria's Secret to Fredericks of Hollywood or an adult bookstore that sells clothes for exotic dancers and strippers. The model is still wearing some material over her private areas, but it’s as teasing as sexy as you can get without taking the clothes all the way off. These images are designed to be arousing for male viewers but without crossing the line into nudity.



Level 3, Not quite PG-13, not quite rated R. Implied

Sexy Semi-Clothed:
Say the model is wearing a zip up sweater that is not zipped up and no bra underneath. Obviously one would not wear an unzipped sweater with no shirt much less a bra, except for at a photo shoot. Imagine that swimwear or lingerie has become unclasped and the model is simply holding the clothes over her pink areas. Clothes are still being used in the photo, but they are not being worn in a way that one would wear them in public.



Implied Nudes:
These images are where the model is not wearing or holding any clothes, but no pink areas are seen by the camera. Think of a pose where her legs are crossed thus covering her pubic area, arms are in front of or holding breasts, long hair covers the nipples, hands are covering the crotch and so on. Props can be used in implied nudes also. The model may be standing behind a fence or tree limb that covers her pink areas.



Half Clothed, Half Implied Nude:
The model is wearing panties but no top with her back to the camera or covering her breasts with her arms. Magazines such as Maxim, FHM and Stuff use these styles of images, but when they use them on the cover of the magazine, bookstores tend to put them in with adult magazines.



Body Paint:
Being painted can include simple face painting like at an amusement park, painting over underwear; or being fully naked, but completely painted over. To see a variety of samples, visit my website www.louisvilleboudoirphotography.com.

Level 4: Rated R. Fully Nude

Topless vs. Bottomless:
In general, nudity is broken down into two categories: Topless and Bottomless. Many models are comfortable revealing their breasts and nipples, but not their pubic area. According to MPAA guidelines, a bare butt can be PG or PG-13, but once nipples are revealed, the rating becomes R. So for the sake of this document, Level 4A is topless and Level 4B is bottomless. Even still, there are varying degrees of nudity depending on the context. Below are three examples:

Artistic Nudes:
This category also could possibly fall into some previous levels depending on the context. A painting or statue of a model with full frontal nudity that is described as "art" (such as Michelangelo's David or Botticelli's Birth of Venus) would be rated G. Even contemporary artistic nude photos that are displayed in public museums or art galleries would NOT be considered rated R. One can find this level of nude images in photography and art books on the lower shelves in a book store that a child can pick up and look at while Maxim (which does not reveal pink areas) is covered and/or on the top shelf out of reach of kids or behind the counter. That's because most artistic nudes are not designed to be erotic or arousing. Renowned celebrity photographer Annie Lebowitz has many artistic nudes in her books, but no one would call those images erotic. My favorite Artistic Nude Photographer is Mark Esposito, largely because of his locations in the Southwest United States. http://www.antelopia.com.

Erotic Art:
Different people have different ideas of when the line is crossed from classy nudes into erotic images without crossing the line into porn. I describe Erotic Art as models who are not engaged in purely sexual positions or actions, yet the images are highly and purposely arousing. The best example of erotic artistic nudes is a German Photographer named Petter Hegre.
http://www.hegre-art.com.

Playboy:
For over fifty years Playboy has managed to be a trendsetter without dramatically changing their style. There was a shift in the sixties when they went from topless to bottomless. Playboy was considered the first pornography magazine available internationally, but in the last decade, porn has become more hard core and Playboy has not. Consequently, Playboy has settled into the mainstream as a men's magazine with sexy nude models, but without being at the same level as Hustler or what today we think of as porn. Playboy models are in various sexy poses, but are not touching their pink areas or imitating sexual positions. Thus, Playboy has emerged as a style all its own. It not the only example of this level of sexy nudity, but it’s the most universally understood. Today some might even call these images "soft porn" due to the absence of sexual activity in the image. Playboy style includes both topless and bottomless.

PS: After I first wrote this article, a friend told me that Playboy videos (unlike the magazine) do have the models touching their pink areas and thus cross the line from soft porn to purely erotic and arousing material.

Level 5: Rated X. Porn.

You don't really need me to write a description here, do you?

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A Note of Caution to Aspiring Models on How to Avoid Scams

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Those who are interested in modeling work need to be cautious of people and companies trying to exploit naive and enthusiastic young people willing to spend lots of money in hopes of making their dreams of becoming a model come true. I am going to talk about three predators groups: 1, Guys with a camera and website trying to meet young women, 2, Online sexual predators and 3, Scam model management companies.

While the digital age has allowed photography to be less expensive and the internet has made networking a task easily accomplished for amateur models and photographers alike, it has unfortunately brought some risks.

1. Ladies and parents should be cautious of GWC (guys with cameras) who claim to be photographers and really just want to meet pretty young women and take pictures of them in small amounts of clothing for their own personal pleasure.

There are several ways to distinguish a real photographer from a GWC: A professional or semi-professional photographer will have professional equipment: an expensive camera that costs at least over $1000 and can't be purchased at a mass retail outlet like Wal-mart. It will be an SLR (single lens reflex) and he will possess additional equipment such as an external flash and interchangeable lenses. Furthermore he will probably own some studio equipment such as lights, reflectors and backdrops.

Like any hobby or profession, one must start from the bottom up and a truly aspiring photographer just getting started (but who is not a GWC) may simply not have the income to invest in professional equipment yet, much less a studio. An amateur photographer can learn and practice composition with consumer level equipment, but I would suggest to that photographer that he first work as an assistant or intern to a professional photographer with professional equipment in a studio setting before scouting for aspiring models to shoot on his own.

Also, an amateur photographer working with models for the first time should be able to produce previous works (photos of nature, commercial prints, artistic photos) to demonstrate that his primary interest is photography and not luring pretty girls to his home to take pictures of them in lingerie. If the only pictures in his portfolio are swimsuit and lingerie, he is a GWC.

There are many internet based networking sites for models and photographers such as www.imodel.com,
www.onemodelplace.com, www.modelmayhem.com and www.modellocate.com. A professional photographer will likely have his or her own website with samples of their published work and/or an upgraded (not free) account on one of the aforementioned networking sites. Still, anyone can buy a camera and create a website.

Professional photographers will usually have a studio in an office building, but there are plenty of pros who simply are not that invested in a local market. Some pros do work out of their home and have a room set up as a studio. Hotels do in fact make good locations to shoot because the bathroom with closed doors and large mirrors are great for changing and doing hair and make-up. But in general, be very cautious of any photographer who invites you to do a shoot in their home or hotel. If you are shooting with several people such as stylists and/or multiple models and photographers, home studios and hotels can be made into a safe environments. But if its just one guy with a camera inviting you to his house, apartment or hotel room, take a guest and make sure a close friend or relative knows where you are and how long you will be there.

Of course the best way to distinguish a GWC from an aspiring amateur photographer is to ask for references. It is completely appropriate to ask for professional references such as current and/or former employers.

2. A greater risk is sexual predators using the internet and the cover of "being a photographer" or "in the modeling industry" to meet minors (or those of legal age for that matter) to engage in sexual activity. Adolescents are by nature sexually curious and often needy for attention. That makes them a prime candidate to be victims of sexual abuse by a predator who hides his true intentions. It is illegal to use the internet to seek sexual activity with a minor whether a meeting takes place or not. NBC's TV news show Dateline has aired several features on an organization called Perverted Justice, a group that works with law enforcement dedicated to finding, exposing and convicting internet predators. Visit their website here: www.perverted-justice.com.

Likewise, teenagers should be discreet about their personal information online and not post "sexy" images of themselves on public profile sites. Sadly, today's teen idols such as the party girls who keep getting arrested for DUI related charges and dress and dance like strippers on TV and in magazines have become role models for young women and girls. While soliciting a minor for sexual activity is illegal under any circumstances, it is still unwise to advertise one's self. To do so is like posting photos of your car in a profile that reveals the location of your keys. Its still illegal to steal a car, but you wouldn't share access to it on the internet. Note to teen girls: Don't post sexy photos of yourself in skanky clothes posing in slutty positions and then whine when a creepy old man tries to flirt with you over the internet.

3. Another risk is scam companies who claim to be agencies and charge enormous amounts of money to inexperienced models claiming to get them paid jobs. While there are legitimate schools that offer training and photographers who sell their services, you should never pay hundreds of dollars to a company making those claims. Even the legitimate schools and some photographers often overcharge for their services with the claim that you will be able to earn it back working as a model. A good portfolio from a professional portrait studio can be purchased for $200 - $450.

Three of the largest modeling "schools" are John Casablancas, John Robert Powers and Barbizon. While they may successfully teach charm and stage presence, give tips on exercise and diet, demonstrate hair styling and makeup application as well as posing and walking technique; they cannot guarantee that such training will lead to paid jobs. The states of Texas and Florida have passed laws preventing agencies from making the purchase of training services a requirement to being represented. Unfortunately, KY, IN and OH are too small of markets and so many scam companies slip under the law enforcement and public safety radar.

Here are some characteristics of a scam modeling agency:

A. They claim that in order to get paying jobs, you must first pay them hundreds to thousands of dollars for "classes" or "photography." While its true that models must have a portfolio and some training helps, the fact is that a model can put together a mild portfolio via TFP shoots (explained below) and a good portfolio from an independent photographer (as mentioned above).

Legit agencies do NOT have their own photographer who do all their shoots. While agents will of course know photographers (as well as make-up artists and hair stylists) and can make referrals to trusted professionals, models pay the photographer for the photos and then the model gives them to the agency rather than the agency supplying the photographer and taking the money themselves. Sometimes scam companies will tell you that you don't have to use their photographer, but they strongly encourage you to. Call their bluff. Create your own portfolio and submit it and see if you get paying jobs. Most people don't.

B. Scam companies will often claim to have the ability to get you signed with a big NY or LA agency via their exclusive contacts. Some larger agencies do accept referrals from small companies, but then of course if you sign an exclusive contract, they get 20% just for a referral. Ask yourself: "Why would a company that represents models pass on their talent to a competitor?" ANYONE can send their photos to and audition with big NY and LA agencies - no intermediary is required.

C. Sometimes, to avoid being labeled a scam, these companies do in fact provide work for models. But the difference between a talent agent and a scam company is that while an agent contacts the talent regarding an audition or job, a scam company simply posts ads on their website and the model has to check it themselves. Any individual can scan the classifieds and craigslist.org for jobs. And anyone with a website can repost those ads. So then when the model complains about not getting work, the scam company tells them that they should be checking their website for jobs. That's what's known as "blame the victim." What usually happens is that a small handful of models get the few paid jobs and everyone else supports them by paying $1000 for photos.

Another trick to avoid being labeled a scam is to produce fashion shows, but not pay the runway models. Sometimes they promote the job to the models as "great for exposure" and "resume/portfolio building" and there is truth to the benefits of getting your face and name out there; even if you are not getting paid, especially if you are a beginner. But what I have seen is the scam company getting paid by the client yet telling the models they are working for exposure. Another disclaimer is to partner the fashion show with a non-profit organization and explain to the models that all the proceeds are going to the charity. Well, the sound, light and video production company is getting paid, the DJ is getting paid, the promoter gets a cut and the other staff in the venue gets paid for working so why not the runway models? The scam company "produces" the fashion show as a vehicle to recruit new victims to pay hundreds to thousands of dollars to be represented, so that's how they profit from the show.

Here is what you have to ask yourself about working for free in order to build up your portfolio: What do you walk away with? Do you have photos of yourself on the runway to prove to potential clients that you did the show? Are your photos being used in a magazine ad, newspaper ad, billboard ad, poster or other physical, tangible product (called a tear sheet) that document your work? Having your photo in a catalog, storefront poster, flier or even a business' website can be adequate compensation for a beginner model. But to do show after show and shoot after shoot for no money means that you are probably being taken advantage of.

D. Another characteristic of a scam company is that when you do in fact get a paying job, not only is the rate very low, but the company doesn't pay you after the gig. If you have to call them repeatedly and ask for your check, then obviously they are exploiting you and trying to steal your money. Sometimes it does in fact take more than 30 days for the agency to collect from a client, but if months go by, then you have been ripped off.

When I worked for legit agencies in New Orleans and LA, even the not so experienced models earned $100 - $300 for a shoot that lasted one or two hours. A full day can pay from $500 - over $1000. Local advertising agencies will of course pay less than nationwide campaigns. But if the model gets $10 - $20 per hour, its likely that the scam agency is making even more money per hour, on top of their 20% cut.

The fact is that there is simply not enough work out there (especially in a market like Louisville) for every person who wants to be a model. Most of the paid jobs outside of NY, LA, Miami, Vegas and other large cities are promotional modeling jobs. Only a tiny fraction of actors and models earn a living as a professional. Even NY and LA are full of aspiring stars waiting tables full time and waiting for that big break the rest of the time. At the Ford Modeling Agency, only one in a thousand girls who apply are signed to the agency and only a fraction of those earn a living wage as a model. If you really want to do fashion modeling or other work outside of promo jobs, you will need to relocate to a larger market.

Know the difference between a real agency (a company which makes 100% of it's revenue from commissions off paid jobs) and a model management company (which charges models to be represented). In some states where agencies are licensed, they will use the words "model management" instead of "agency." In general, "model management" is a sign of a scam.

Children, teens and students should look at modeling as an extracurricular activity like being on a sports team at school. Those who are proactive, polite and punctual can be successful, especially if they happen to get "discovered" by the right person at the right time. Parents and potential models should be prepared to invest the same level of time and money into acting/modeling classes and photography as they would in piano lessons or athletic equipment (i.e. not lump sums of hundreds of dollars) but not expect that investment to guarantee paid jobs. And even then, paying several hundred to several thousand dollars to an "agency" that charges for classes and photography probably won't have the same payoff that the same kid can get from being a student athlete or musician.

With the advent of profile hosting and networking websites, many clients are bypassing agencies and instead advertising for and recruiting models directly. Therefore a model can be successful in a small, local market like Louisville acting independently. So if a model is going to pay hundreds of dollars to someone else to find them work, then what kind of work ethic are they going to have on the job? I would prefer to work with a model who is proactive and determined. In other words, since a good model can find their own jobs and submit their portfolios to legit agencies on their own, a scam company is going to prey on the ones who are not proactive enough to know better. A scam can exist only if there are willing victims.

Visit the site www.modelingscams.org for more information on scams and this site by the Federal Trade Commission: www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/services/model.htm.

TFP (Time for Prints):

A good solution to avoiding predator groups seeking to exploit aspiring models is a transaction known in the industry as TFP (time for prints). It's a trade between photographers and models where the model gives their time free of charge and the photographer in turn gives them copies of the prints. Today this trade is sometimes referred to as TFCD - a compact disk of digital pictures is given instead of actual prints.

TFP is a great way for amateur photographers and aspiring models to meet and help one another expand their portfolios. Photographers often will help models learn posing techniques and how to be comfortable in front of the camera. Even professional photographers and experienced models will do TFP in order to work with other reputable professionals.

Even though TFP is not a cash transaction, the photographer should have a release form for the model to sign. This allows mutual property of the pictures for both the photographer and model to use as they wish (depending on the terms in the contract). You must realize that most release forms do grant the photographer the right to profit from the photo, but not necessarily the model. Here is a link from the website www.istockphoto.com about model releases with links to samples.

Because there are countless amateur and professional photographers offering TFP who are easily available through the networking sites mentioned earlier, there is no need for a "management" company to insist that you sign an exclusive contract with them and use only their photographer. You can create and host your own portfolio with legitimate photographers on networking websites at no cost. If you want to pay for photography and classes, just be sure that you are not being overcharged with the promise of booked jobs from the same company.

Whether paying for photography and classes or working one on one with a photographer, it is very wise for models under 18 to have a parent or guardian present and sign a release form. I don't work with minors who do not plan to have a guardian present. Likewise, I encourage young ladies to bring a friend or family member to shoots rather than show up alone - at least for the first meeting.

Some models may be more comfortable without their friends or family present and watching the shoot, some may prefer to have them. As a photographer, I prefer to see people close to the model such a mother and/or boyfriend take an interest in and be supportive of their hobby and career pursuit.

It is imperative for photographers, models and their guests to foster a professional atmosphere of trust. Being cautious of these predator groups will greatly contribute to a happy and successful experience getting started in the modeling industry.

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Models: How to Use craigslist.org and Other Classifieds Ads to Find Good, Paying Jobs

Visit my main website www.zymage.com.

What follows is free, good advice from an industry professional for models (and other performers) looking for jobs posted on www.craigslist.org and other classified ads so that you can avoid being tricked by scammers, identity thieves and marketing companies collecting your contact info; and ultimately get good job offers from the legit businesses:

INTRODUCTION:

My name is Jacob Zimmer, owner of ZYMAGE, LLC an event production business and photo studio (specializing in models and entertainment) here in Louisville. The reason for honestly identifying myself is because too many ads seeking models do not.

I worked for top agencies in New Orleans and LA and know how to spot the scam agencies. My career has included all facets of showbiz having worked in all 50 States including on-camera and behind the camera work in television and film; and on-stage and backstage jobs in theatre, dance and fashion shows. I have also been a magazine editor and of course internationally published professional photographer. I have worked with TV personalities Kendra Wilkinson, Spencer and Heidi, Brody Jenner; was in a feature film with Michael Keaton and Brendan Fraser; on television with Joey Lawrence and for BET; was the Stage Manager for the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders; and have worked backstage with countless musicians.

Based on my experience both in hiring models and looking for entertainment gigs myself, I have assembled a list of do’s and don’ts as well as other tips for using classified ads such as craigslist to find paying jobs:

Where to look: most model jobs on www.craigslist.org are in the “gigs” section under “talent.” But you can also find modeling jobs in the “events” section of “gigs” as well as several categories in the “jobs” section such as “marketing / pr / ad” and “tv / film / video.”

I. TEN RULES

Rule number 1: Don’t reply to anonymous ads.* A legit company that is hiring models for a paying job will identify themselves and their company in the ad. Postings that do not, have no credibility because anyone can post an ad on craigslist and thus it might be someone seeking models for a more elusive purpose. Look for postings that have the company name, contact name, company website, office phone number and a real email address.

When you see ads with words and phrases like: “Large Production Company,” “Exciting Opportunity,” “Huge Show,” “Growing Business,” “Expanding into New Markets,” and “Lots of New Clients” but not the name of the company, ask yourself: If they are that big of a deal, why are they not revealing who they are? A good business knows the value of credible marketing and will want to put their name out there.

Your photo is your face and your resume and bio has your name. If they don’t give their name in the ad, then don’t give your name in the reply. Having said that, there are some legit job offers by people who just don’t know how to write a good classified ad. More on that in the next section.

Rule Number 2: Ads for good jobs will list the place, dates and times of the event; the name of the show and of course the pay. Ads that don’t list basic information about the job indicate a person or company disguising a scam as a gig that needs models. A real job from a legit company will have the details of the gig and an exact dollar figure for compensation posted because that information will weed out people who are unavailable and thus attract the right kind of talent.

When an ad reads: “Now Auditioning” or “Now Casting” or “We are looking for,” but doesn’t give the date and time of the audition, then they are probably not really casting for a job. Events like fashion shows and films usually hold one audition and you have to be there. The date, time and location are set in stone and they want the public to know when and where to audition (except when going through recruiters, agents or pre-screening). You can usually identify a phony audition ad when they ask you to come in for an interview at your convenience. Most legit interviews are for a specific job and so when an ad or interviewer speaks of alleged multiple “upcoming” events, be skeptical.

Rule Number 3: Be wary of the words: “No Experience Necessary,” “Model Search” and “Seeking New Faces.” “No Experience Necessary” usually means that they are not going to pay (because experienced models get paid for working) and it sometimes means adult work (porn). “Model Search” usually really means “credit card search” and “Seeking New Faces” is also a sign of a scam company. A good company should only be searching for models (hiring talent) when they already have paying clients lined up ready to hire them.

Specifically, be very wary of ads for model searches in hotels where hundreds of people sign up and line the hallways. These are out of town companies that advertise heavily (mostly radio) to recruit “fresh talent,” when in fact it’s just a rip off to take your money and get out of town. Their colorful posters and fliers are very attractive and their presentations are very persuasive. They will drop names of stars claiming that they got those actors, singers and models started. The truth is that they too were victimized, got ripped off, but moved on and found real jobs on their own.

Some of these companies have been around for a long time and you may ask yourself: “If they are a scam, how are they still in business?” Well, most people who get ripped off are embarrassed about it and don’t put up a fight to get their money back, especially when the company is from out of town. Those who do put up a fight usually lose because the scammers know how to cover their tracks. And there is always a steady flow of young people who dream of being a model (potential victims).

Rule Number 4: Be on the lookout for multiple ads that appear to have been posted by the same person. When you read an ad that has the same language, style and information (or lack of) as several other ads, it is likely the same person blasting the thread with different postings in order to cast a wide net to lure more victims. That’s a spammer, not a job offer. Often the grammar and spelling is very poor because they were typing quickly in order to post lots of ads (or they are just an idiot who doesn’t know proper English). Craigslist actually has a “flag” just for this purpose. In the top right-hand corner you can flag an ad as a “spam/overpost” and they will ban the IP of the user from posting more fraudulent ads.

Rule Number 5: Be very wary of “agencies.” In a market as small as Louisville, sadly the word “agency” usually means scam. Most of the so-called agencies are actually “talent management” or “model management” companies that charge models excessive amounts of money for photography, classes and portfolio hosting but seldom actually book models on paid jobs. No job charges you to work for them. If you have a question about a specific agency, email me and I will give you some sources and references so that you can determine if they are legit.

If you decide to go to a casting call or interview, never take a credit card, checkbook or cash with you. A job interview means that they want to pay you for working. If they are a scam that wants you to pay for photos, classes or whatever over-priced gimmick they are trying to sell you, they can be very persuasive and manipulative. So if you don’t have any money on you, they definitely won’t be able to talk you into giving it to them. A legit agency never charges models fees of any kind. And never sign a contract on the spot. Take it home with you and have a lawyer or trusted expert read it over and give you their advice.

Rule Number 6: Never send unmarked photos to anonymous and generic email addresses (yahoo, hotmail, aol, gmail and/or of course the #######@craigslist.org). You have no idea who takes possession of your photos and how they will be used. It is wise to have lo-res (under 600 pixels wide and under 100 dpi (myspace and facebook size)) professional photos with the photographer’s watermark or credit on them available to send in reply to legit postings. Never send hi-res, full size printable photos.

Now, I’m not just saying that to plug my studio photography services for models, but rather because 1, if your photos are not being used for a potential client to see what you look like, copyrighted photos cannot legally be redistributed or used for commercial purposes; 2, if it is legit, the potential client will be more impressed with a model who submits professional photos because it sends the message that you are serious about your work, rather than just a pretty girl who asked a guy with a camera to take her picture. And for goodness sakes, don’t send pics taken with your cell phone or your reflection in the bathroom mirror!

Another good idea is to have an online portfolio. The best website for portfolio hosting with a personalized url is www.imodel.com because for just $9.95 a month you can create a portfolio with www.yourname.com. OMP (www.onemodelplace.com) is good, but MM (www.modelmayhem.com) is less for clients and more for social networking. You don’t want a potential client visiting your online portfolio and then seeing personal comments from friends. With your own online portfolio, you don’t have to worry about sending photos. Having said that, if it is a legit client and they ask you to send them, then do it.

Rule Number 7: The warnings on craigslist wisely remind us to deal locally. That is true, especially when selling a product (I received a phony check for $2000 when selling furniture once). But when looking for modeling jobs, my experience is that the best jobs are from out-of-town clients (in part because the scams in town have conditioned the local businesses to think they can always get models for free working for “exposure”).

For tradeshows and conventions, the vendors leave town at the end of the show and sometimes you might be waiting a long time for a check. Derby time is the worst because big shots from NY and LA think we are a bunch of Kentucky hillbillies who they can rip off. I accept cash only on Derby weekend. A good, legit client will pay you at the end of the job but often the check will come a month later. More on making sure you get paid in the third section.

Rule Number 8: Create an email account just for modeling. Some of the classified ads online are really just marketing companies collecting emails, addresses and phone numbers to sell to other marketing companies which will send you spam and junk mail. So if you are a student or have a day job with a personalized email from your college or business, don’t use that address for modeling work. If you decide to use www.imodel.com, you can get the email address yourname@yourname.com, which of course gives a very professional appearance. You may even want to consider having a stage name just for modeling work.

Rule Number 9: Never give your cell phone or physical address in response to an ad until you have confirmed that they are a legit client. Again, your information can be sold to telemarketers or the new thing now is spam text messages. Anyone can post an ad online and it could be some creepy guy looking to hit on hot girls. Or it could be an attempt at identity theft. Worst case scenario is that some rapist is posting ads asking for “models” to send photos and resumes and then he shows up at your home. It would be wise not to put your home address on a resume, but rather a P.O. Box or just your city and zip code (just make sure a legit client who you do a job for has your address to send your paycheck to).

Rule Number 10: Never go to an interview alone unless it is in a very public setting. Now, the interview itself will likely be just you and the potential client(s), but your boyfriend, friend, parent or sibling should be welcome to come with you and sit in the waiting room while you interview. Having said that, you do want to show a legitimate, potential client that you have your own transportation, don’t need someone else for moral support and confident enough to be on your own. But if you are concerned for your safety, don’t go alone.

II. TYPES OF ADS TO BE CAUTIOUS OF, BUT MIGHT BE LEGIT:

Rules 1-10 used words like “always” and “never.” Now I want to talk about ads that might appear shady, but might be a real job offer and how to reply. Sometimes people just don’t know how to compose an effective ad and here is how you can separate the job offers from the junk:

*Rule number 1 was to not reply to anonymous ads, but if you see one that might be a real job but the poster left out all the information, then email a reply with a message like this:

Greetings,

I saw your ad seeking models. Due to the nationwide epidemic of identity theft and for the sake of my own safety, I don’t reply to anonymous ads. I am an experienced and qualified professional, but before I send you my photos or a resume, I would like to ask you to reply with basic information including your name, your company name, company website, company phone number; the name of the show, the location and dates of the show, wardrobe requirements and pay.

Thank you for your time and understanding.

Your First Name Only

By asking these questions, you are sending the message to scammers that they are not going to get away with their tricks; and when it is a legit client, you are sending the message that you are a serious professional and they will respect that. I replied with an email like that once and the poster deleted the ad and posted a new one with all the information about their company and the job.

When the ad itself or the email that comes back to you merely lists a website and instructs you to sign up with it, it’s probably phony. Most of the time it’s just a trick to get your information to sell to marketing companies and potential identity thieves. Reply back with a specific question again and if the email says the same thing, then obviously it is being generated by a computer rather than an actual person reading your email. Your email address has already been turned over to spammers, so don’t give them any more info like your physical address or phone number. Check them out before signing up. Google the company and look for message boards or forums where others post their experiences. If a Google search reveals only craigslist ads from other cities, it’s a scam.

Websites that claim to be a “talent database” are probably a waste of your time but some of the companies that specialize in trade show models are legit. See, focusing on something specific like just trade shows is narrow therefore more likely a real agent where as “talent” is generic will appeal to actors, musicians and a wider net of potential victims. CMG www.creativemanagementgrp.com is a legit Florida based agency that books models nationwide that asks you to sign up online.

If you are unsure of a company’s website, email me and I’ll check them out for you. Also visit www.modelscams.org, www.ripoffreport.com, www.easybackgroundcheck.com and of course your local Better Business Bureau www.louisville.bbb.org. The BBB uses a grading system, but it can be misleading. An agency might have an F grade because of a complaint they never responded to. Another agency might have a B grade because they did resolve complaints, but had 18 of them!

Earlier I mentioned working for “exposure.” DON’T DO IT. “Exposure” and “credit” are bad words in modeling (in small markets like Louisville). It’s usually just a trick to get you to work for free. Sadly, too many gullible young people fall for it because they think a runway show is glamorous and fun. When they do that, they are taking money out of your pocket because the client is getting away with not paying professionals like you. NEVER work for “exposure” (unless it is a national publication or wide distribution and you will in fact be seen by real potential clients). Some good jobs can offer a trade (like a gift certificate) and there is some value to networking depending on who else (potential clients) will be at the gig. But in general, if a job is all about what you can do for them and less about how it will help you, then DON’T DO IT.

Sometimes amateur or aspiring photographers (and professional artists) will post ads seeking models to shoot for their own portfolio, personal pleasure or to sell the photos in a gallery setting or on the web. Sometimes experienced, professional photographers who want to get into shooting models as subjects use ads to find talent (models follow posing directions much better than say, infants or race horses). Sometimes they are legit and pay well. Other times its some dirty old man who wants to take pictures of you half naked for his own personal pleasure (perhaps willing to pay good money for his hobby) or a GWC (Guy With Camera: a derogatory term to describe guys who pretend to be photographers in order to be in the company of pretty girls). In both cases, the ad might be anonymous and it can be hard to tell the difference from the ad alone. Meet the guy at a public place like a coffee shop and bring an escort with you. Ask yourself: does the conversation feel like an interview or a first date? If you do the shoot, bring a friend with you.

III. HOW TO REPLY TO LEGIT ADS AND GET THE JOB:

What NOT to do:

Always deal directly with the contact who posted the ad and the person who is paying you. NEVER, EVER go around a recruiter or agent in order to contact the client’s client. Whoever hired you is your boss.

The client is getting dozens of replies from lots of different models. 90% of the time, they are going to glance at your photo and decide right then and there if they want to interview you (another reason to use professional photos). If you don’t hear back in a few days, it’s fine to send one follow-up email, but do NOT call and bug the client after that. It’s one thing to show that you are interested; it is another to be a pest.

I will tell you from when I have hired models that nothing irritates me more than models asking questions that I already answered in the ad. READ the ad carefully and don’t ask them for information that was already posted in the original ad. When you do, it sends the message that you are an idiot who can’t read.

It’s wise not to contact the client and ask what to wear to an interview. One of the things you will be judged on is your choice of wardrobe, so use your own judgment. Most of the time, you will want to dress sexy, but not slutty.

Avoid asking the client for directions. Often casting calls are in public venues and the address is in the ad (if not, then ask). Google it and get the map and directions on your own. Arrive early and give yourself time to find a parking spot and wander through the halls to find the room. Don’t be late!

What TO do:

Presumably, you have a high school education and know English. Use correct spelling and proper grammar. Do NOT reply with internet short hand like you are sending a text message to your friend. It’s “You are” not “ur.” It’s “See you” not “cu.” “I” is always capitalized. “A lot” is two words. If you can’t read and write, a legit client paying good money isn’t going to care how hot you are. OK, well, some of them might, but still, write like you are being graded on it. If it comes down to two models both of whom have a similar look and experience, they will choose the person who can compose a coherent sentence.

Also, since most of the modeling gigs in Louisville are promo jobs for trade shows and conventions, they will require a badge to get in. When you respond to an ad, ask the client where, when and how you can obtain your ID badge before your call time. Often security will not let you in without the badge and then you are late to work. Again, when you ask this question of a client, they will realize that you are an experienced professional.

Always have a variety of professional portfolio photos ready to send in. Think about photos from a client’s point of view: after posting an ad they get twenty emails from models with photos. They will look at the photos before reading through your resume so that is where you need to make your first impression. Clients hiring models are not looking for artistic photos or images of you with crazy hair styles and outrageous make up, but rather they want to see what you really look like, today.

I’ve worked for agencies and hired models and its very annoying when a model sends in photos that are a year old when she had red hair and was a size four and then she shows up for a job and she has black hair, five new tattoos and now wears a size eight. It can be expensive to get professional photos done every time you change your hair style, but that is what pros in larger cities do.

I’m not just saying this to plug my own services, but portrait studio photographers with a commercial background are going to be more adept at shooting portfolio images that will help you get jobs more so than an artistic photographer trying to create flashy photos to pad their own portfolio. Not that models and photographers can’t do both (many of us do), but remember that the client is hiring the model, not the photographer. Having said that, some photographers have a specific style and if the job you are going after has a similar theme to a certain photographer’s forte, then hire them to shoot you.

Now that doesn’t mean that you should never shoot with artists or collaborate on projects together – just that when it comes to submitting photos for jobs, they need to show what you look like, not what you look like after being covered in excessive make up and photoshopped into a work of art. Working with a variety of photographers is great experience, but not everyone shoots portfolio images.

Also, think about the client’s style and choose your photos appropriately. If the gig is a promo job, then send photos with bright colors where you are smiling. If the job is a photo shoot for a magazine, then send photos similar to what you see in that publication. If the job is a fashion show, then send photos of you on the runway at a previous show. Most ads ask for a head shot and full length body shot (usually in swimwear). A good photographer knows how to pose models and what people who hire models are looking for.

Make sure you are going to get paid. When replying to an ad, ask when, how and by whom you are getting paid. If they say that a check will be mailed weeks later, make sure to get business cards from all your contacts. Print copies of emails that say how much the pay is and keep track of your hours in writing. Another good idea is to create your own time sheet and have the contact person on site sign it at the end of each day verifying how many hours you worked.

Lastly, do NOT doubt yourself. In every single interview and audition process that I have been a part of, there are dozens of attractive and highly qualified models who don’t show up because they are afraid they won’t be good enough. While you are comparing yourself to another model who is taller or has bigger boobs, she is looking at you and wishing that she had your hair, your smile, your skin, your walk, your hips, your personality, your confidence, your experience and so on and so on. Never shy away from a potential job interview because you are afraid of the competition. You don’t always know exactly what the client is looking for and you just might be perfect.

When it comes to promotional jobs or other gigs where you interact with customers, a confident person with an outgoing personality will be hired before a great looking woman who can’t talk to people. Photo jobs often have a very specific look and it’s not always going to be the hottest girl interviewed who gets the job. Smile, be friendly, be brief and be professional.

Back to Articles contents page.

FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions posed to Jacob Zimmer, owner of Zymage, LLC

Visit my main website www.zymage.com.

The questions are divided into several chapters (underlined), so scroll down for the topic of your interest if you don’t want to read all 4,084 words.

1. BOUDOIR PHOTOGRAPHY
2. LOUISVILLE NIGHTCLUB SCENE AND PARTY PICS
3. MODELS
4. FAMILY PORTRAITS, WEDDINGS, SENIORS, MUSIC, SPORTS etc…
5. OTHER BUSINESS QUESTIONS
6. PERSONAL QUESTIONS

1. BOUDOIR PHOTOGRAPHY

Will my photos be posted on the Internet?

Not unless you want them to be. Usually boudoir sessions are completely private, especially as they are used as surprise gifts. Your business and images are kept completely confidential. Some clients even have the digital negatives deleted after the prints are made. The photos in the boudoir portfolio on my website are with consent and a signed release form from the person pictured for the purpose of marketing my work and services, not to host my clients’ session photos.

Does “boudoir” mean nude?

No, boudoir is the French word for “ladies bedroom” and can include pajamas, robes, lingerie as well as implied nude and fully nude images. For a detailed distinction of various levels of clothing, click on the link to my article: Levels of Clothing Coverage and Skin Exposure for Female Models and Boudoir Clients

2. LOUISVILLE NIGHTCLUB SCENE AND PARTY PICS

You took my picture at a party, can you email it to me?

No. When I am shooting snapshots in nightclubs, I am working directly for the club or the promoter. They take the images, add their logo and decide which ones are posted. Visit the club’s website and/or their MySpace/facebooks profile and look for the album with the name and date of the party you attended. Not all of the hundreds of frames I shoot are selected for posting. I do NOT post those photos on my websites and I cannot possibly email every photo to the thousands of people who I shoot.

But I saw you post one of your pics on a MySpace and facebook comment.

Occasionally I will take an image that I like and put it in my portfolio and if I have the free time, I might share it with a friend who is in it (or who tipped me), but otherwise I do not choose which images are posted.

So you are like the paparazzi?

No, no, no. Let me clarify: Paparrazzi crash parties and sell their photos to publications. I work for the clubs and so their customer is my customer. I am a contracted staff person in the same way that the DJ is hired to work that night. Some of my clients have me on payroll and send me a tax form just like the other employees. I do not just show up and shoot for the sake of networking and promoting myself and I am NOT a paparazzi!

So how much do you charge to shoot a party or event?

Visit the Booking/Rates link on my website.

How come your name and credit is not on all the photos?

Well, I shoot thousands of snapshots at parties and I’m just not that vain enough to take the time to put my name on every picture. Sometimes my clients choose to post a photo that I think looks less than great and frankly don’t want my name on it. As Zymage often covers multiple events, I have other local photographers shooting as well but we are more concerned that the client gets the credit than the photographer. Sometimes I don’t even know where the party pics get posted. As long as my name is on the paycheck, I am less concerned with having the name on the photo. But, I still own the copyrights to every photo I take as do all photographers. Photos that appear in publications should have the photo credit just as articles should have the byline by the writer, but ads typically do not credit the creators because you don’t want to distract from the product being advertised.

What happens when another photographer shows up at an event you are working and takes pictures of people partying?

They wake up to a horse’s head in their bed.

Seriously?

No, it’s an allusion to the movie The Godfather. I was just kidding of course. I don’t mind at all as long as they are not trying to steal my clients or undercut my business. Most photographers in town all know each other and we get along well. I think Velocity’s Party Crasher reads my MySpace bulletins and facebook status updates to see where I am working so they know the best parties to cover. Also, when I worked for magazines I hired photographers to cover our events and now Zymage hires other photographers to cover the workload. Also, some venues including Fourth St. Live do have policies that forbid professional cameras.

3. MODELS

Do you pay your models?

I don’t “have” models. When I need a model to pose for a project or job I am working on, then I compensate them for their time and work. When a model needs photos for their portfolio or for one of their clients, they hire me for my photography services.

Do you help models find work?

Yes, but I am not attempting to function full time as an agency. Click on the Talent Agent link on my website for more information. Basically, I book professional and experienced models for good paying jobs. I do not fulfill requests to have pretty girls at a party or work for free drinks.

What advice do you have for an aspiring model?

Find a local agency that charges you hundreds of dollars to sign with them while claiming to offer classes and photography, do jobs that you are not paid for and get locked into a contract that won’t allow you to get your money back if you are unsatisfied.

Are you serious? I have to pay to be represented?

No, I was of course joking. Read the piece: A Note of Caution for Aspiring Models. Also check out www.modelingscams.org and this posting from the Federal Trade Commission: www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/services/model.shtm and ask yourself if the characteristics of a scam describe an agency you know of. The bottom line is that any “agency” that requires that you pay fees whether for photography or classes is likely a scam. Legit agencies only earn revenue from commissions off paid jobs.

So the sign of a legit agency is that they don’t charge me for photos and classes?

No, the sign is that they don’t charge anyone, not just you. What some companies will do is have a select few “top models” who do not pay any fees to sign and do get some paying jobs. But for every one of those “top models” there are a hundred more who paid thousands of dollars in order to keep the company running. There are not enough good paying jobs in Louisville for anyone to run a business off commissions from just a dozen models so the income to support the agency comes from the fees paid by hundreds of aspiring models who never get any work. And often those who are booked on jobs don’t actually get paid for the work they did do.

Are you speaking of one company in particular in an effort to expose how that agency interacts with aspiring models? Be frank, cause most model and talent agencies in Louisville seem to have strong robbing powers.

No, all the characteristics of scam agencies that I list and their methods used to rip off victims are used by hundreds of so-called “agencies” across the country. Sometimes, they are true scams that come into a town, take the money and run. Others are local companies designed to rip people off and get away with it by changing their name every year or so. Some are simply bad businesses that do some booking work, but most of their revenue comes from the models paying fees. I used to work for the one of the top agencies in LA so I know the difference between a real agency and a rip off.

Since you worked for legit agencies in other states and know how to do it right, why don’t you open your own agency here?

Because there simply is not enough work in a market the size of Louisville to earn a living booking models. It would take a large investment of time for a very low return of money. While it is a service that I provide to clients, it’s just one part of my business, not something I actively pursue or market. In other words, the clients who hire Zymage know that I can book the best models for their job, but I don’t have “Zymage Girls” nor do I put on events just to showcase models.

So what you are saying is that since you can’t do it, everyone else must be a scam? What is wrong with selling classes, selling photo shoots AND helping models find work?

The phenomenon of models paying the agency fees upfront means that they are the customer and the employee. Can you think of any other job where you pay to work there? That is simply a conflict of interest and a big no-no in business ethics. In fact, it is illegal in CA, NY, TX, FL and IL. Even worse is picking a few employees who don’t pay fees but do get all the work while the people who did pay don’t get any jobs.

OK, so now I know what not to do, what are the correct steps to become a model?

Check out the networking sites www.onemodelplace.com and www.modelmayhem.com. They are kind of like MySpace or facebook for models and photographers and a great way to start networking. Find a photographer whose work you like and contact them about setting up a shoot. Then create your own portfolio. More detailed information can be found in the article How to Use craigslist.org and Other Classified Ads to Find Good Paying Jobs. If you really intend to pursue modeling as a career and not just something on the side, plan to move to Chicago, Miami, Las Vegas, Los Angeles or New York.

What are your rates to shoot a model portfolio?

Visit the Booking/Rates link on my website.

WOW, what a great value!

Thanks.

But I’m just a poor college student and can’t afford your rates but I still want to build a model portfolio. Can I just take pics of myself or have a friend shoot me in cute and sexy clothes?

You will want to have professional photos in your portfolio in order for clients to take you seriously. No matter how pretty you are, aiming your phone camera at your face, taking your picture in the bathroom mirror and using snapshots in your home, at a club or from a vacation will only serve to make you look like a “wannabe” and not a truly aspiring model.

Can you recommend another photographer who is more affordable?

Yes, I have worked with many good photographers and stylists in Louisville. The best way to get a referral for a photographer is from one of their clients. When asking one model photographer about their competition, of course they are likely to pump themselves up and although it’s unprofessional, they might even trash talk other photographers. The truth is, a model’s portfolio will look best the more variety it contains and so working with as many different photographers as possible is the most ideal way to build a portfolio. If all your photos look the same because all your shoots are from the same photographer using the same lighting and the same stylist with the same backgrounds, then you will look like you just like to hang out with your friend who happens to shoot models rather than present yourself as seriously looking for work.

I’ve seen a lot of model photos on MySpace and facebook but their heads look big and their skin looks yellow, why is that?

Because they are using the wrong lights, have the camera on the wrong settings and the models are not positioned correctly for portrait and glamour photography. Professional photographers use an SLR camera, know how to use it on Manual mode, use strobes (flashing lights, not static lights that are always on) and other professional equipment. Different photographers have different artistic styles, but there is no substitute for technical proficiency.

What about hair and make-up?

Using a professional, licensed MUA (make-up artist) and hair stylist who knows which products and colors are best for the camera will contribute greatly to quality photos. The states of KY and IN require that people who apply make-up and do hair are licensed by the state because there are various health related issues. I use several licensed MUAs and stylists who will change the models hair and make up for each outfit and lighting set up so that each photo session will appear to have been from an entirely different photo shoot.

So hair and make-up is an additional cost per session?

Yes, and it’s worth it. Of course, I don’t take a cut of the stylists’ pay so there is no mark up. A good portfolio will consist of distinctly different looks with different lighting, different hair and make-up and of course different outfits. A good model should have a variety of appearances just as a good actor can play different roles.

4. FAMILY PORTRAITS, WEDDINGS, SENIORS, MUSIC, SPORTS etc…

Do you only shoot models and parties?

No, not at all. But it might seem like that because I am seen working at parties and my shots of models get more attention than less glamorous subjects. I do use MySpace and facebook profiles and my network of local friends for modeling and nightclub related work more so than say family portraits or trade shows since families and business people are typically less active on a social networking site than a young single person.

What other subjects do you shoot?

Whatever and whoever I’m paid to shoot. Most of my work is used in print advertisements and other marketing literature. Some clients want images of themselves for personal use and some businesses hire me to shoot their products before they are released to the public. So much of my work is not in my portfolio and I never even see the final print.

Do you shoot sports and other action photos?

Yes, my sports action shots have been published in several different magazines and newspapers. I used to work for Lightspeed Photos and most of our jobs were athletic events. I have also shot UofL football and basketball games as well as high school meets and games. Shooting athletic events is very different than studio work. When shooting models for example, I often instruct them on how to pose and together we “create” an image where as with sports photography I “capture” a frame of the action. Shooting concerts, dance recitals and fashion shows is similar to sports photography in that sense because your subjects are in motion.

Do you do weddings, senior pictures and family portraits?

Yes, yes and yes. Many photographers who specialize in weddings and sell expensive specialty packages and I can offer a more affordable DIY package. I also shoot portraits of couples for engagement announcements. I have shot many families, especially around Christmas time for both holiday cards and portraits framed as gifts. Today, many high school seniors enjoy a more model portfolio style and so they choose Zymage over other studios.

What about concerts, bands, musicians and album art?

I shoot all of the above. Visit my Event Photo Portfolio for concert footage and other musicians. I like to shoot staged events like concerts and dance shows because like sports, I can catch the performer in action.

Which type of work do you prefer? Action, Family Portraits, Models or Parties?

Actually, my favorite subject to shoot is nature. I used to travel for a living and loved shooting the landscapes and rock formations in the National Parks out west. But back then I had a crappy digital camera so while I am proud of the composition, the quality is poor. My favorite photographers are Michael Fatali and Mark Esposito, both of whom live and work in Utah. I do like shooting athletic and on-stage events because it’s fun to capture the action. Family portraits will be amusing to look at fifteen years from now and laugh at everyone’s clothes and hair style. Shooting models is nice because unlike families, athletes and musicians, models follow directions. Shooting parties is fun because I have some really cool clients and get to see my friends every weekend. I like to use photography to create art, but commercial work pays the bills.

What is the difference between “Artistic” and “Commercial” Photography?

I’m glad you asked! Most artistic photography is done by the photographer for the photographer’s own fulfillment whereas commercial photography is shooting images that their clients want. Of course there is a lot of overlap as commercial photographers are often chosen for their creative eye as well as technical expertise.

Is there anything you won’t shoot?

I won’t photograph someone else’s work that is protected by copyright laws without written permission from the creator (such as a painting). I don’t like to shoot items with company logos unless that company is paying me or my client is selling that product. For example, a model creating a portfolio shouldn’t wear a shirt with the name Hollister plastered a across it unless Hollister is paying us, but I will of course shoot a model wearing a Diesel shirt if we are creating an ad for a clothing store that sells Diesel. I don’t like to shoot violent images. I won’t shoot someone who doesn’t want their picture taken unless it’s a friend of mine and they are only pretending they don’t want their picture taken because they know that means I will actually shoot more of them (you know who you are!).

5. OTHER BUSINESS QUESTIONS

What advice do you have for aspiring photographers?

Go to parties and take pictures of hot, drunk girls and then invite them into your home or hotel to do a photo shoot. Serve them alcohol and ask them to pose topless. You can also use the internet to meet teenagers who want to be a model. Try to convince them that you are a big time photographer who can get them exposure to become a supermodel.

Was that last answer sarcasm?

YES! Of course I was totally joking. A professional photographer should have a commercial studio on non-residential property, a corporate bank account, a License to Operate a Business from the city of Metro Louisville, Articles of Incorporation with the Secretary of State of the Commonwealth of Kentucky and a Federal Tax Identification Number from the Internal Revenue Service just like any small business owner. There are plenty of freelancers who do fine work and have not started their own business yet, but that is the difference between a professional and an amateur. There are also photographers who work out of their home and/or are on staff with a publication and therefore are also a professional. But when it comes to models, I have never and will never invite a model into my house to shoot and I do not serve alcohol in my studio (although there is a bar and liquor store around the corner).

OK, then what are some real tips for an aspiring photographer wishing to getting started in the business?

Examine what your end goal is. If it’s to go to parties and hang out with models and you think carrying a camera around is the ticket in, then you are just a creepy guy with a camera. If you want to make money, then plan to get into weddings and senior portraits. If you want to create art, then study art and other photographs and images to inspire you. Try some of everything and decide if you prefer to shoot for a publication or have your own studio. Formal education is a good path to be a photojournalist as well as business owner. The best way to get started right away is to shadow a professional photographer and offer to be their assistant.

Did you study photography in school?

Yes, in high school I learned to develop film and prints in a dark room and in college I was on staff with the student paper and annual. So I learned how to use a manual SLR camera and darkroom equipment before the digital revolution. After college I chose a career in the technical production of live events and got back into photography in 2004 when I returned to journalism and worked for an entertainment magazine in Louisiana. I also worked for a modeling agency in New Orleans.

Did you used to use the name “ModelShooter” and where does the name Zymage come from?

Years ago when I lived in New Orleans and started my own photography website, I was trying to think of a domain name that reflected shooting models and so I chose www.modelshooter.net. As I branched into shooting other subjects and opened my own studio, I needed a new name for my business. Zymage is a combination of my last name Zimmer and the word “image.” I spelled it with a “y” instead of an “i” because www.zimage.com was already taken and because it’s cool like my friends Kynt & Vyxsin, and Wyncom & Rhyno Productions (two companies I used to work for). The urls www.modelshooter.net and www.zymage.com both go to the same site.

6. PERSONAL QUESTIONS

Most of the time I see you working, you are wearing that sexy black utility vest – its like a fashionable version of Batman’s belt. Where can I find one?

I bought that vest at a police supply store in Massachusetts. Some photography shops like Murphy’s and outdoor sporting goods stores sell beige ones, but I’m the only guy in town with a black one. Since I started wearing mine, Yono and Michael Dossett started wearing black utility vests too. What can I say, I’m a fashion trendsetter.

Exactly how many pockets does that thing have?

If you can guess right, I’ll give you 25% off session fees.

Is it true that Daniel Cole, Kevin Mills, Derek Olgine and Chris Proctor started wearing vests because they were inspired by your vest?

Yes, of course. You would think that guys who work in the fashion and apparel industry would be more creative, but instead they want to dress like me.

If you are a “fashion” photographer, how come you don’t dress in expensive, designer clothes?

Uh, that vest was expensive! I shoot for a few salons too, but I don’t have highlights in my hair. Actually, I do have a few clothes from local boutiques, but my work has been mostly backstage and I’m more comfortable in “show blacks.” Besides, if I’m going to wear a shirt with Ed Hardy’s name plastered across the front, then Mr. Hardy should be paying me to advertise for him.

I know that you have shot events like drag shows at gay clubs and have been published in a gay newspaper, does that mean that you’re gay?

I’m here, I’m queer, I’m… uh, how’s the rest of that phrase go?

I’ve also seen you shoot parties with a primarily African-American clientele, that you directed a fashion show with all African-American models, shot album art for hip hop artists and that you worked for BET, so are you black?

Well, my mom’s side of the family is from Oklahoma.

So you work with models and all these beautiful women in nightclubs. Do you get to date these girls?

Get to? No, I have to. All the women I work with are crazy and if I didn’t go out with them, no one would. At least when we go out they pay for dinner. I just hate it when they expect me to put out on a first date. I’m not easy, ya know.

Was that last answer also just a joke?

YES! I maintain a strict policy of not dating models I work with. Of course, shooting party pics in nightclubs is a very social atmosphere so it’s not unheard of to fraternize with models I have worked with when they attend a party that I am working, especially since I am a friendly guy and a fabulous dancer.

You are not that great of a dancer, you actually just look like you’re having too much fun.

When it comes to shooting parties, I interact with the customers rather than just shoot the action. The models’ boyfriends don’t get jealous when the girls dance with me because they were in the studio when I taped her boobs together so they know me and they know I am not a threat to their relationship, even though I am a good looking single guy with a charming personality.

So you are single? My friend thinks you are cute. Can I set you up with a blind date?

How does she know I’m cute if she’s blind?

Are these real questions or did you just make them up to be funny?

I was inspired by the "Ask a Mexican" column.

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